Archive for the ‘food’ Category
Antica Focacceria San Francesco in Palermo, Sicily
Please let’s ignore the fact that Berlusconi has fooled a majority of Italians into voting him into office a third time, OK? And also that my local party lost as well. Instead let’s move on to happier, comforting topics.
Like food.
You may be wondering where What’s Cooking Wednesday is this week. Don’t worry, it’s still going on at Shannon’s Tales from a Fairy Blogmother, but here at Bleeding Espresso, I’m shifting it to Friday when I’ll be posting my mom’s stuffing/filling/dressing recipe for La Buona Cucina Americana. Be sure to come back!
Keeping the food theme going, though, and finally getting back to my trip to Sicily, I’m going to tell you about one of Palermo’s most famous spots, the Antica Focacceria San Francesco:
The Focacceria is located on a tiny street opposite a small square anchored by the Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi:
See that design near the top of the church? Here’s a view from inside:
And here is some detail on the outside of the church (another here):
You can’t miss this place as you’ll probably wonder why a carabinieri car and two officers are outside. All. The. Time. Erin of The Olive Notes explains the phenomenon here. Hint: it involves something that rhymes with “The Bafia” but it’s probably not what you think, so do read Erin’s post.
The Antica Focacceria has been around since 1834 and is listed in all the guidebooks as one of *the* places you should visit in Palermo for traditional Sicilian food; luckily for Cherrye and me, our hotel was literally just around the corner–in fact, that’s where the hotel got our delicious morning pastries from.
On our first night in Palermo as we searched alto and basso for something, anything to eat before 7 p.m. (unsuccessfully), we decided against the Focacceria because (gasp!) the ala carte food looked old and crusty (I’m sure it was great at lunch though!), and also because we didn’t realize that we also had the choice of eating upstairs, which is more like a standard restaurant and overlooks the hustling bustling ala carte section below.
We made a fabulous decision to return to the restaurant section the following night, though, and were treated to an amazing dinner that cost us each under 20 euros, including a small carafe of house wine.
We started out by splitting the Sicilian sampler (as I like to call it):
Pane con milza (spleen sandwich, which yes I tried and actually liked in a small dose), sfincione (thick Sicilian pizza topped with an anchovy, tomato, spicy mixture), arancini (rice balls with various fillings), potato croquettes, pannelle (chickpea fritters), and caponata (eggplant, peppers, capers, veggie mix).
And then on to one of Sicily’s most famous dishes
made with eggplant and ricotta salata,
Pasta alla Norma:
And once we saw this dessert cart come to the next table:
We knew we’d have to get something. So we split this:
Which the waiter just pulled from the cart and gave to us–no wax doubles like in America!
This was basically an inside out cannolo drenched in chocolate syrup. *So* good, as was everything apart from the pasta, of all things, being a tad undercooked and a bit salty.
But overall, you definitely have to stop in the Antica Focacceria on a visit to Palermo.
Aside from tasty traditional Sicilian food, a fun atmosphere, cheerful service, and great prices, the portions were so big that we didn’t finish anything. Unfortunately since we were leaving Palermo by train the next morning, doggie bags were ill-advised (and yes, I would’ve asked even though they’re not the norm in Italy!).
Tragic, I know.
Antica Focacceria San Francesco
Via Paternostro, 58
90100 Palermo
091 32 02 64
What’s Cooking Wednesday: Mediterranean Eggplant Soup
This past weekend I had some eggplants/aubergines sitting here waiting to be used.
I thought about Pasta alla Norma, Calabrian stuffed eggplant, or eggplant balls, but decided that I really wanted some zuppa to warm me up–we had quite a chilly, windy weekend–so I went to the Interwebs to find something new.
I found this recipe for Mediterranean Eggplant Soup from Vegetarian Soups for All Seasons: Bountiful Vegan Soups and Stews for Every Time of Year by Nava Atlas.
It looked fabulous, so I gave it a try, making my own adjustments, including substituting the “Italian herb mix” with a few sprigs of rosemary and thyme (and of course peperoncino) and adding a vegetable bouillon cube at the last minute for a little kick.
I also sprinkled some grated cheese on at the end because, well, I do that with pretty much every soup I eat.
I didn’t, however, add the small soup pasta that is called for because I really wanted to keep it light *and* I wasn’t in the mood for pasta (I know, call the authorities!).
When I make this again, I’ll add even more vegetables and make it a more general Mediterranean vegetable soup–peas, green beans, zucchini, perhaps even some cannellini beans for texture. Another idea is to throw in some shrimp and maybe a dash of Old Bay seasoning.
As you can tell, I think this is a great base for tomato vegetable soup, and all the better if you have your own stock ready. And *so* easy. Be creative!
Mediterranean Eggplant Soup
(Zuppa di Melanzane)
[adapted from Vegetarian Soups for All Seasons: Bountiful Vegan Soups and Stews for Every Time of Year by Nava Atlas]
*serves 6-8
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 celery stalks, diced
5 cups water
1 vegetable bouillon cube or replace one cup of water with stock
2 medium eggplants, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, undrained
A few sprigs rosemary and thyme
Pinch of peperoncino
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
Salt to taste
1. Heat oil in a soup pot. Add onion, garlic, and celery and sauté over medium heat for a few minutes until onion is translucent.
2. Add water, bouillon cube, eggplant, tomatoes, rosemary, thyme, and peperoncino. Bring to a simmer and let cook until eggplant is tender, about 45 minutes.
3. Add parsley, and adjust the consistency to your liking. Season to taste with salt.
4. Grate some of your favorite cheese on top if you like, and serve immediately.
Buon appetito!
What’s Cooking Wednesday: Pasta with Calabrian Sausage
I have to admit that I was not a fan of sausage before I moved here. Calabrian salsiccia is really something special though, and this simple dish has become one of my absolute favorites.
If you’re going to make this week’s What’s Cooking Wednesday recipe, please try your hardest to get some Calabrian sausage. The main flavor you should be looking for inside la salsiccia is peperoncino — hot pepper. Look at the photo below–see how red the inside is? That’s not undercooked, that’s piccante. And YUM.
The recipe is super easy–just your basic tomato sauce really–so feel free to experiment, throw in some peppers, mushrooms, or whatever you like, although you probably won’t need extra peperoncino!
I know a lot of people take the sausage out of its casing and crumble it into the sauce, but the method described below really lets the sausage shine. Keeping the sausage in its casings would also allow for the traditional Italian meal of pasta for the first course and then meat for the second course–although we eat it all together anyway. My American influence on P perhaps?
Pasta with Calabrian Sausage
(serves 2)
- Pasta of your choice [recommended: fusilli or penne(short) or bucatini (long)]
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 small red onion, chopped finely
- 1 clove garlic, cut in half
- 2-4 Calabrian sausage links, depending on their size and how many people are eating
- Small handful of parsley, chopped
- Splash of red wine (optional)
- 1 can of tomatoes
- salt to taste
1. Heat about half a tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat in saucepan.
2. Poke holes in the sausage with a fork, add sausage to the pan, and and cook until browned on the outside, about 10 minutes. The sausage should also spring back from your touch a bit. It doesn’t have to be cooked through completely at this point as it will continue to cook in the sauce later, but you do want it mostly cooked.
3. Add another half a tablespoon of olive oil if the pan is dry; it may or may not be depending on the fat content in the sausage. Add onions, garlic, and parsley and sauté without letting them burn; you may have to turn down the heat a bit here.
4. Optional: Add wine and let cook off.
5. Turn the heat down to low and add tomatoes (put through a grinder or chopped to your liking), about a 1/4 cup of water to clean out the can, and salt to your taste. If sauce is still too thick, add some water; we often add up to 1/3 cup depending on the tomatoes. Cover and let simmer for another 10-15 minutes or until the tomatoes are done to your satisfaction (including proper thickness of sauce). If the sauce is too thin, let it cook for a bit without the lid on.
6. Prepare pasta and toss well with sauce. You could add some grated cheese, but I think this is delicious without.
Buon appetito!
What’s Cooking Wednesday: Potatoes, Peppers, & Eggs
My grandmother used to make this week’s What’s Cooking Wednesday recipe, Potatoes, Peppers, & Eggs, any time of day and so do I.
I tend to turn to this tried and true dish whenever I have peppers around that won’t get used otherwise or when I simply don’t know what else to eat but want something that’ll fill me up and keep me full.
And every time I make it, I wonder why I don’t make it more often because I really do love it. Pass the fresh bread! Yum!
I do this in a fancy scrambled eggs style, but you could just as easily turn this into a frittata/omelet. For me, scrambling the eggs is simply less labor-intensive, thus keeping the fast, easy, and delicious theme that we like so much around here.
Oh, you don’t want the potatoes in? Check out the Seven Fishes Blog‘s recipe for Peppers & Eggs here. And of course this would be great with ham, pancetta, onions . . . use your imagination, and whatever you have around that needs to be used up!
Potatoes, peppers, & eggs
(serves 2)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 3 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks
- 1 large green pepper (or red, yellow, whatever you prefer), cut into strips
- 3 eggs
- 1 tablespoon grated cheese
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
1. Heat oil on medium in a pan that will be big enough to hold all ingredients.
2. Add peppers and toss so they are covered with oil. Lower heat and let cook for about 10 minutes or until tender.
3. Add potatoes, tossing well with oil and peppers. Cook for another 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender and light golden brown.
4. Meanwhile in a medium bowl, beat together eggs, cheese, and salt.
5. Pour egg mixture over potatoes and peppers, stirring frequently. Cook until eggs are no longer runny.
6. Grab some fresh bread and dig in!
Buon appetito!
La Buona Cucina America Plus Pasqua in Calabria
Even though there have been small celebrations all week, today really begins the Pasqua (Easter) festivities around here. They won’t finish until late Monday afternoon, so I won’t be back blogging until Tuesday.
But you know I wouldn’t leave you without at least some suggestions of what to do to fill your blog-reading time, right?
Want to experience what I’ll be doing this weekend?
1. Check out Pasqua in Calabria for a description of our day long procession on Sabato Santo (Holy Saturday) and the magical Easter Sunday meeting between the Madonna and Jesus.
2. Then see the photographic evidence in Pasqua in Calabria: The Photos.
3. And if you’re curious about why the fun in Italy continues on until Easter Monday, check out last year’s Pasquetta activities in Still Celebrating.
4. If you’re looking for traditional Calabrian Easter cake, check out Calabrian Cuzzupe.
5. And if you happen to be interested in one of my favorite childhood holiday memories, check out Deno’s Easter Eggs.
And now a very important announcement:
Have you noticed the new widget over in my sidebar? Looks like this?
Here’s the deal. Our philosopher in Umbria, Judith of Think on it!, is stufa of hearing that American food is characterized over here in Italy as unhealthy at best and downright poisonous at worst. We Americans know we eat “real food” and that it’s not all sweets and McDonald’s right?
Well it’s time to show the Italians “La Buona Cucina Americana.”
So Judith, Mary of The Flavors of Abruzzo, Barb of Barb and Art Live in Italy, Sara of Ms. Adventures in Italy, Cherrye of My Bella Vita, Judy of Over a Tuscan Stove, and I are going to be taking turns sharing real American food and recipes each Friday.
In the words of our fearless leader Judith:
Some friends and I are going to begin publishing weekly recipes for old fashioned American food, food like grandma used to cook and perhaps like you still cook, if you happen to be American. So what’s new about that? There are innumerable food bloggers in the USA pouring out magnificent food of every description as made in the USA. Yes, that is so, but they don’t do it from Italy and in Italian!
That’s right folks. All recipes will be in English *and* Italian so that Italians can stop by and enjoy some down home American food–so tell your Italian friends!
Mary is kicking off things today with American Style Shepherd’s Pie, and next week will be Judith’s turn with Chicken Pot Pie.
Mmm. I’m getting hungry…and homesick!
If there’s anything you’d like to see featured in La Buona Cucina Americana or if you’d be up for the challenge of sharing your American recipes in Italian (with ingredients available in Italy), leave a comment here!
I hope the Italians are ready for us.
Buona Pasqua to those celebrating–and buon weekend to all!
Michelle Kaminsky is an American attorney-turned-freelance writer who lived in her family's ancestral village in Calabria, Italy for 15 years. This blog is now archived.
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