7 July 2008
capuchin catacombs, palermo, sicily
Well, Mom is on her way home to the US and the last Palermonday is upon us. A sad day all around, but let’s try to liven things up around here with . . .
The Capuchin Catacombs of Palermo!
(cannoli not included)
I saved the Capuchin Catacombs (Catacombe dei Cappuccini) for last because they were my favorite spot on our quick jaunt through Sicily. Since I’ve always been fascinated by and drawn to cemeteries (so peaceful and comforting), I knew I’d love the catacombs. And I did.
For those who don’t know, catacombs are underground burial crypts and the Capuchins’ version in Palermo is outstanding. The Capuchins, by the way, are an order of Franciscan friars (Order of Friars Minor Capuchin) who wear brown hooded robes. For a little word origin fun, “hood” in Italian is “cappuccio” and the diminutive (“little hood”) is “cappuccino.”
And yes, that is where my favorite drink gets its name; some believe that Marco d’Aviano, a Capuchin friar, invented the drink in the 17th century, but others say the frothy milk and coffee mixture simply resembles the brown, pointed hooded robe.
Whatever the Capuchins’ contribution to beverage history, they sure left behind something spectacular in Piazza Cappuccini between Via Pindemonte and Corso Calatafimi in Palermo.
Even on a Sunday in February when we visited, there was quite a crowd waiting to get in when the catacombs reopened at 3 pm after unch. A sweet, white-bearded monk took our coins, and we followed the crowd down some steps and through a corridor, cooler air hitting our faces with every step.
The first glance inside was simply amazing.
There are about 8,000 bodies down there, lining the walls, lying on shelves, hanging upright, some posed in chairs, etc. There are sections for men, women (children included), professionals, priests and even virgins, pictured at left; you just need to follow the arrows to hit every part of the underground maze, although Cherrye and I went through backwards to avoid the flow of (living) people.
How did all these bodies get down here? Well, toward the end of the 16th century, burial space for monks was scarce, so in 1599, the first monk was buried underground and the remains of a few other monks were moved there. The spot started out exclusively for monks, but the Order began receiving special requests from benefactors to be buried there as well.
Permission had to be granted by the High Prelates and the General Superiors of the Order until 1739, and thereafter by the Superiors of the Convent; it certainly must have been quite an honor to be included among such Palermitani.
Many of the clothes placed on the corpses are still in fairly good condition and walking through the catacombs can be kind of an eerie historical fashion show–religious robes, military uniforms, housewives’ attire, children’s best from the 17th century through the beginning of the 20th.
There is just so much history in this relatively small space; I only wished there were more information on each individual corpse, much like I wish more tombstones and markers in cemeteries told fuller stories. But how much can you really fit on a marker, I guess?
So many of the bodies were so lifelike; I could just imagine them laughing, talking, joking, arguing, you know, living.
The best preserved is little, gorgeous Rosalia Lombardo, at left, who died in 1920 and was one of the last laid to rest in the catacombs.
Dr. Solafia, a doctor from Palermo, embalmed her, but to this day his method remains a secret; whatever he used, the results are spectacular. Rosalia looks like she is sleeping, taking an afternoon nap after a long morning of running around under the Sicilian sun.
Other preservation methods included arsenic, lime or vinegar.
I don’t know that I’d ever want tourists rushing past my dead body trying to sneak photos (for the record, you’re not supposed to take any and I didn’t; the photos in this post are all photos of the brochure), but I am *so* very honored we got to spend some time underground with these old souls.
In fact, Cherrye and I definitely spent much more time in there than others who rushed in beside us.
I’m not sure there was even anyone left down there when we finally made our way out to pick up some brochures and say good-bye to the elderly monk as he sat behind his small basket of coins saying daily prayers under his breath.
I hope you enjoyed our stay in Sicily! If you missed any in the series, please check out the posts in the Palermondays and Sicily categories.
Related posts:
- Mudslides in Messina: Thanks for Not Getting in the Way Berlusconi!
- La Dolce Vita Women’s Italian Retreat
- Love Thursday: Direct from a Southern Italian Beach
- Love Thursday: Ventagli from Anna Maria
33 beans of wisdom »
Rebecca on 07 Jul 2008 at 7:24 am #
Good Lord, that is pretty freaky – looking @ little Rosalia……
but then who am I to talk as I have spent time looking @ preserved people – ancient ancient ones – in obscure villages in Papua…..strange, this fascination with preservation
Rebecca’s last blog post..Swimmingly Well – Thank you!
Ooh I’d love to hear more about those obscure villages….
Sandier Pastures on 07 Jul 2008 at 7:39 am #
A little scary but fascinating piece of history! I wish to see it with my own eyes someday! Does it kind of smell down there? (it doesn’t smell according to articles in the net but I’d still like to know)
Sandier Pastures’s last blog post..shuffled luck
No smell that I recall Grace; maybe a little musty, but more like a cantina/cellar than anything else I’d say.
nyc/caribbean ragazza on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:03 am #
Michelle there is a Capuchin catacombs here below a church. Part of me wants to go the other part is too freaked out.
I have an irrational fear of death so maybe it would be good for me to see it.
I’ve really enjoyed your Sicilian adventures.
nyc/caribbean ragazza’s last blog post..Rome off the tourist track…a trip to Tivoli.
Oh an irrational fear of death can’t be fun; if you think visiting the catacombs would help, I’d definitely go for it!
Judith in Umbria on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:31 am #
I’m pleased you worked out how to have a snack and corpses in the same post. It’s an impressive achievement. I looked at the cannoli and said, she’s never going to pull this off… but you did.
I do not go to catacombs. I think the effort — particularly among Christians — to preserve corpses, make things out of them or use them for interior decoration is weird. I picture Rosalia trapped forever as a cadaver instead of flying off into the ether to become one with the universe. The fashion museum parts of this one would interest me, but I’d rather they used hangers.
I am not afraid to die and I am no longer freaked about dead people, I just think I personally would prefer to be left alone. In return I plan to leave them alone. And drink my coffee somewhere a bit less necrophiliac.
Judith in Umbria’s last blog post..Summer Escapes
I knew it’d be tough to go from cannoli to catacombs, but I was up for the challenge
I can definitely see your views on the whole preservation (and visitation) thing. I suppose I look at it just like any other piece of historical record–I wouldn’t necessarily be in favor of doing this today (in fact, I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t) but since it’s already been done, my natural curiosity says “go see it!”
I’ll be happy to have that coffee with you elsewhere though
Jeni Hill Ertmer on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:36 am #
Now, that was an incredible tour! Very interesting, educational -ok, maybe a bit strange I suppose -but really fascinating all the same. And here, all these years, I thought the catacombs were just hiding places -caves under Rome or something like that. I had no idea they were cemeteries!
Hope your Mom had a safe trip back to good old PA too! By the sounds of things you’ve written about during her visit there, you had a really terrific time. Peace!
Jeni Hill Ertmer’s last blog post..authorblog: Weekend Wandering
I believe *some* catacombs are simply underground tunnels, etc., without the bodies, so I don’t think you were far off Jeni. Mom’s over the Atlantic as I type this, and yes, we had a magnificent time thanks
milanesemasala on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:47 am #
Oooh! What a way to start the week!! Kind of puts things in perspective. But that picture of Rosalia was pretty freaky.
milanesemasala’s last blog post..Sweet summer music
Glad you enjoyed; I hadn’t thought about the fact that it was starting off a week this way…now *how* can I follow this up?!
Joanne at frutto della passione on 07 Jul 2008 at 12:15 pm #
Your Palermondays always make me want to go back. Sadly, this summer is out of the question, maybe I can convince my boys in the fall.
Joanne at frutto della passione’s last blog post..We have a winner!
Honestly Joanne, I wouldn’t recommend the summer anyway…temps in the high 30s or so can’t be great for walking around a city in Sicily
annoa2 on 07 Jul 2008 at 12:16 pm #
Cannoli, cappuccino, and catacombs… somehow I feel weirdly well-prepared to meet the week. This has been an amazing tour — thanks, Michelle!
annoa2’s last blog post..[About] Me and My Editor(s) — v.2
I’d give the credit to the caffeine and sugar
Glad you enjoyed!
running42k on 07 Jul 2008 at 12:35 pm #
Spooky, especially the little girl.
At least it had an espresso and some cannoli.
running42k’s last blog post..A too fast weekend
Hey as long as you found something you enjoyed
Leanne on 07 Jul 2008 at 2:49 pm #
I never went there when I was in Palermo…I don’t know if I would like to though as I went to a more boring version in Rome (no preserved people here) but it was so far under ground and so enclosed that that alone freaked me out!
Now you have finished the Sicily stuff you’ll just have to make another trip there and see the rest of the island!
Leanne’s last blog post..Strikes in Italy
See I’ve always been fascinated by the underground…I think growing up in a coal mining area did that to me
And you’re *so* right about having to plan another trip….
thotlady on 07 Jul 2008 at 3:45 pm #
I too enjoy cemetaries, crypts, catacombs. Wonderful entry. We visited an underground crypt when we were in Vienna several years ago. They had some of the royal family entombed there. Fascinating place.
I am amazed by the little girl. She is very life-like. A little eery.
We have to definitely visit Palermo when we come to Italy.
Couldn’t recommend stopping in Palermo more; keep me posted on your travels!
LuLu on 07 Jul 2008 at 4:58 pm #
Wow! That’s is strangely incredible. I have never been in a catacomb like that before…I think part of me would be extremely intrigued at the history of it but the other part of me would feel like I’m imposing. I’ve really enjoyed reading about your trip to Palermo. I eventually want to hop over to Sicily one day.
LuLu’s last blog post..Happy Canada Day!
Hope you make it to Sicily Lulu; definitely worth a nice, long stop
JennDZ_The LeftoverQueen on 07 Jul 2008 at 5:54 pm #
Wow, that looks so interesting, albeit a bit creepy! I so need to go to Palermo – but maybe I will just go for the cannoli!
JennDZ_The LeftoverQueen’s last blog post..Independence Day Celebration
The cannoli’s definitely worth it Jenn! Go for it
Wanderlust Scarlett on 07 Jul 2008 at 7:04 pm #
Wow… that’s pretty amazing. Here’s one of our first differences… I’m not a big fan of cemeteries and places of rest for the deceased, but I haven’t spent much time in them so perhaps an appreciation could be learned.
I *would* love to take my time going through Westminster Abbey next time I am back there, specifically to visit the interred, so perhaps it is an appreciation that will grow with time.
This was fascinating though, and those are very interesting pictures, especially Rosalie.
Thanks for the wonderful tour, all of your stops, photos and words were excellently relayed.
Scarlett & Viaggiatore
Wanderlust Scarlett’s last blog post..One Nation Under…
Ooh ooh, I want to come to Westminster Abbey! When can we go?!!!!
Diane Mandy on 07 Jul 2008 at 7:48 pm #
Wishing your mom safe travels!
Diane Mandy’s last blog post..Five Habits Meme
Thanks Diane; she’s about an hour away from landing in Philly as I type
Debbbie Egizio on 07 Jul 2008 at 8:01 pm #
The catacombs are so fascinating. I don’t know if I could go down there but how amazing is it that the little girl was preserved so well. Thanks for sharing your trip. It’s always wonderful to stop by for a visit!
Debbbie Egizio’s last blog post..Six word memoir tag and a Pico Award
Glad you enjoyed stopping by Debbie; always a pleasure to see you as well
poppy fields on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:33 pm #
Those catacombs are amazing. That’s something I’d like to visit.
poppy fields’s last blog post..Red Rock
Come on down
Frances on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:58 pm #
Actually the photo of the cannolli brightened my day up.
That last one fo Mr. & Mrs. Skeleton – yikes!
Much bloglove from the USA,
Frances
Frances’s last blog post..random photos from my weekend…
I love cannoli too Frances
jen of a2eatwrite on 07 Jul 2008 at 9:59 pm #
How completely extraordinary! I know that D would love to go there, too. Well, that first shot had me, too – that type of cannoli is my favorite! You have definitely converted me to a Palermo fan with all these posts.
I’m so sorry your mom had to return to the States. I’m sure it was a wonderful visit.
jen of a2eatwrite’s last blog post..How We’re Celebrating July 4th
We had an awesome time, Jen, thanks
Lisa on 07 Jul 2008 at 11:05 pm #
That makes me pretty upset that I opted not to go see the catacombs!! My friends really enjoyed it though and it gives me a reason to return to sicily. Thanks! Ps. The cannolo looks amazing….so many good cannoli in sicilia!
Lisa’s last blog post..Ristorante Revista Lunedi (Restaurant Review Monday)
Definitely a reason to return to Sicilia…as are the cannoli
Dory on 08 Jul 2008 at 2:06 am #
Wow…. so interesting and amazing. Thanks so much for posting this one.
I know you must have had a fabulous time with your mom there… but I imagine you must feel a little (or a LOT) lost the moment she left. It’s always so hard to see the ones we love leave after a great visit… But, I’m sure you took lots of fabulous pics, which I hope you might share with us. hint, hint…. so hopefully the sadness will depart quickly, to be filled with wonderful warm memories.
Dory’s last blog post..Guess who thought Texas loved her?
Yes it’s definitely been different around here without her around, but we’ve already talked several times on the phone! Sure wish she was here for our afternoon coffee though….
casalba on 08 Jul 2008 at 9:11 am #
I love the way you went through ‘backwards’ to avoid the crowd. That’s just the sort of thing I’d do. If we’re going to be tourists, let’s do it our way.
casalba’s last blog post..June Vineyards
Absolutely!
Pip on 08 Jul 2008 at 10:35 am #
I didn’t know there was a Capuchin Catacomb in Palermo, I know very well the one in Rome (where I come from), have you ever seen it? The girl embalmed is simply amazing!
I really should go there, I like catacombs!
Pip’s last blog post..Mi sto allevizzando
Sounds cheesy, I suppose, but if you like catacombs, you’ll love the ones in Palermo
tracie b on 08 Jul 2008 at 2:48 pm #
what we really want to know is this, was it smelly?
tracie b’s last blog post..Il Dubbio
Surprisingly not, Tracie…just a little musty like a regular old basement. Nice to “see” you by the way
bellezza on 08 Jul 2008 at 6:06 pm #
What a fascinating post! I well remember the catacombs of Rome, when I visited in the late 80’s. It made the New Testament so real for me. I wish I could just reach in and grab one of those cappuccinos; I sorely miss truly good coffee such as are available in Europe. Thanks for visiting me today, it’s nice to meet you!
bellezza’s last blog post..A Day At Lake Michigan
Pleased to meet you as well, and I’m happy to bring back some good memories of Rome and European coffee
Anali on 08 Jul 2008 at 10:05 pm #
Talk about being surrounded by history! Thanks for taking us on the tour. That little girl does look alive. It’s so sad, because that means she died so young. Loved learning about the derivation of the word cappucchino. I just made some iced tea. Now I feel like I should make some iced coffee too! : )
Anali’s last blog post..The Foodie Blogroll – Updated
Mmm…I’ll be making iced coffee momentarily
Wanderlust Scarlett on 09 Jul 2008 at 10:16 pm #
A-S-A-Yesterday sister. That’s when we need to go!
Cameras at the ready!!
Scarlett & Viaggiatore
Wanderlust Scarlett’s last blog post..In Thoughts Of You
Sì sììììììììì!
Jessica, Italy Logue on 11 Jul 2008 at 2:25 am #
I’m with you – I adore this kind of stuff. The Capuchin Crypt in Rome and an Ossuary in Sedlec outside Prague are particular holiday highlights of my past.
Thanks for sharing! (And good for you, honoring the no photos thing – it really burns me when I see people disobeying those edicts.)
Jessica, Italy Logue’s last blog post..Siena
Jessica, I saw a few flashes go off while we were down there. *So* disrespectful
Stephanie on 11 Jul 2008 at 3:51 pm #
I have been there a couple of times and found it really interesting too. I got a little freaked out when I started thinking about ‘what if the lights went out’ etc…..but very worth the visit. When we returned home to Michigan though, I was at Krogers in the checkout and noticed “The Enquirer”, and guess who was on the front page? Yep, Little Rosalia Lombardi!!!!! The people in line thought I was completely nuts! I was like, “Oh my gosh, there’s little Rosalia”.
What a coincidence! Yeah, I’m not sure I’d enjoy the little tour with the lights out….
Italian News Snippets: 07.13.08 | Italy Travel Guide on 13 Jul 2008 at 12:03 pm #
[...] Ooh, I just love catacombs and crypts and cemeteries… Dunno why. But here’s yet another that I want to visit – the Capuchin Catacombs in Palermo. [...]
Cherrye at My Bella Vita on 03 Aug 2008 at 6:57 pm #
Hey! I recognize those cappuccini!!
Cherrye at My Bella Vita’s last blog post..Guest Blogger Linda: Green Eggs and Ham
*All* the cappuccini, I’m sure!
Connie Costa on 29 Dec 2008 at 7:50 pm #
What excellent pictures and yes, I agree with everyone else that the picture of Rosalia is pretty freaky! And I agree with you about how delicious cappuccino is!
Mmm I can taste the cappuccino now Connie….
vastedda on 26 Apr 2009 at 12:20 am #
Good job on the Cappucini Catacombs.BTW, “Rosalia” was named after Santa Rosalia,the patron saint of Palermo-whose shrine is located on Monte Pellegrino.If you really want to see a festa,the festa di’Santa Rusalia in Palermo in mid-July is it! Sicilian street food you have heard of and never have heard of. Warning-Hot and Crowded. BTW, it’s “Rusalia” in Sicilian. Rosalia Lombardo is hereabouts A.K.A.”a bedda ‘durmentata”-Sicilian for the beautiful dormant one or “Sleeping Beauty”,also “a bedda’angeluzza ‘ri Palermu’ “-Sicilian for the beautiful little angel of Palermo. E comu’no!On the farther side of the Cappucini monastery there is a NORMAL cemetary where Giuseppe Tommasi,Principe di Lampedusa (Prince of Lampedusa) is buried.The Good Prince is the author of “The Leopard” -”Il Gattopardo” upon which the 60’s movie with Burt Lancaster and Claudia Cardinale is based.The film is regarded as the Sicilian “Gone with the wind”-dealing with Garibaldi’s 1860 invasion of Sicily which overthrew the Bourbons and added Sicily to the unified Italian nation. Thanks for the Cappucini article.
Thanks so much for sharing all this info! I *loved* Palermo