Archive for the ‘life in calabria’ Category
what’s cooking wednesday: calabrian style pan-fried chicken
A whole recipe without pasta! I told you it could happen. It’s nothing complicated, but it’s a winter staple for us around here. This week’s What’s Cooking Wednesday is Calabrian style pan-fried chicken.
If I haven’t mentioned it before, now’s a good time. Southern Italian cooking is famous for its simplicity. It’s all about taking fresh, quality ingredients that you always have on hand and combining them together so that you create something delicious but in which you can still identify the parts the made the whole.
The general eating way here, often referred to as the Mediterranean Diet, includes lots of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, moderate amounts of fish and poultry, little red meat, and a good amount of red wine, and is considered fairly healthy although not perfect. The biggest plus, though, is the heavy use of olive oil, which is high in monounsaturated fat, the type that doesn’t spike cholesterol. And this, as you know, is a very good thing.
So, without further ado, here’s this week’s recipe:
Chicken with Rosemary
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large red onion, roughly sliced
4 cloves garlic
½ chicken cut into pieces
2 tablespoons rosemary (a few sprigs)
Salt and black pepper to taste
Put olive oil into pan large enough to hold chicken.
On medium heat, sauté onions until translucent. Then add garlic and cook until lightly browned. Add the chicken to the pan, seasoning all sides with rosemary, salt and pepper and coating with the olive oil. Turn until all sides are lightly browned.
Then lower the heat slightly and let it cook until the chicken is done, which should be about 45 minutes depending on the thickness of your chicken.
Be sure to turn it every so often to keep it moist and evenly cooked.
Note that if you don’t want pan-fried, you can use the same ingredients to bake the chicken in the oven, just use less olive oil.
Buon appetito!
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[tags]chicken, chicken with rosemary, chicken recipes, rosemary, pan-fried chicken, recipes, cooking, what’s cooking wednesday[/tags]
Navigating the Italian Health Care System: Part II
Last week I went for my annual gynecological exam. Yes, TMI, so if you’re weirded out now (or at some later point in this post), well, don’t come a-crying.
I made sure to show up first so as to get out of there before noon. This meant arriving at 7.30 for a 9 a.m. appointment. Why you ask? Well because everyone gets 9 a.m. appointments–first come, first serve with a lot of “who’s last?” questions as the next woman arrives. No receptionist really, although a social worker does sort of act like one, taking the little referral slips from primary doctors and directing traffic from behind a locked door. Really. I’m only partially sure she’s a real person.
Oh, I should explain. You have to get a referral slip from your primary doctor first, then go that morning to the main health clinic office and get it stamped (I told you Italians love stamps), and then go wait your turn in the GYN clinic. FYI, this is what I looked at for most of that time:
And this was my choice of reading material, had I not brought my own book:
I used my alone time to swipe a few interesting articles from the Italian magazines to be discussed in later posts. But by the by, if you think I was a little over-anxious by arriving so early, by 8.10, there were 3 women after me.
So I was called in first (yeah!), and the doctor did the usual exam taking all of 8 minutes. But then she informed me that I’d have to come back for the PAP test when the technician was there. Yes, there was someone else in the room with us as well, but apparently neither of them were capable of scraping and placing cells on a slide.TMI? Sor.
She also told me that she saw something that started with a “u” I think, and that I should go get an ultrasound at the hospital. She told me it was most likely nothing, that it was actually quite normal, but it’s better to get it checked anyway.
And so began my GYN circus.
Now I’m not going to scare you all with suspense–nothing is wrong. We’re just going to run through the process.First the GYN has to write a referral to go to the hospital. Then you can get your pharmacist (or City Hall official?) to set up an appointment via the computer. Well, the local pharmacist couldn’t do this for me because I’m a straniera — not in the sense that I’m not Italian, because I am, but because I was not born in this area, meaning my info isn’t in the computer.
Alrighty then.
So P’s parents were feeling especially hospital-y and offered to guide me through the maze immediately. Which was very nice, because if left to my own devices, I probably would’ve put it off for weeks, dreading further bureaucracy. I have a quota per week, you know. And it’s very low.
We got to the hospital and took our number to be served at the “make appointments” information window or whatever it’s called. We had number 90 and they were serving number 86, so it looked good–except that there were about 20 other people in the room apparently waiting for something.
Yeah well, I don’t know if they were all stranieri, i.e., clueless, or what, but 87 popped up, and literally, in stunning rapid fire succession, so did 88, 89, and (bam!) 90. Apparently those in between 87 and us didn’t react quickly enough, so Happy Button Pusher just kept on pushin. Fine by me.
So HBP turned Behind The Window Guy said they could take me immediately up in the GYN department, and that would be 46 euro please. Ugh. I was hoping for somewhere around 25, but fine. If it wasn’t my gynecological health, I probably would’ve thought “Now there *better* be something wrong!” but we women don’t joke with these things.
See, basic health care is free, but you have to pay for the extras through what they call “tickets,” using this word in English. It’s kind of funny to hear them say it, although all humor is lost when handing over an orange-colored bill. That’s a fifty for those non-Euro-inclined. They say you can get these expenses reimbursed on your taxes, though, so my receipt is in a safe place.
Anyway, we headed up to the GYN section and promptly joined the line of 5 women already waiting–many who had probably been there since their 9 a.m. scheduled appointment so I couldn’t really complain. There was my longest wait of the day, so I thought I’d take a picture in the meantime, which we’ll get back to later:
Here’s a view of the entrance, er, exit to the operating room:
As you can see, we’ve settled on a charming puke green theme with just a touch (too much) of One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.
Moving on.
I won’t bore you with the fact that even after I was called back for the ultrasound, I had to stand and wait in another hallway for a half hour, shifting back and forth from foot to foot, puppy dog-looking into the eyes of everyone in white that passed only to be greeted with lowered (shameful, I say) heads. I got back there eventually.
And then the fun began.
The doctor was awesome, but first we had some ice to break as I’m sure he thought I was an idiot when he asked why I was there, and I didn’t remember anymore. I *did* know the word that started with a “u” when I left the clinic, I swear, but so many hours had passed. Should’ve written it down.Or, um, maybe the doctor should have?
This doc was forgiving, though, as he inserted the Eye on a Stick, as I call it, and shouted to the nurse the measurements of my uterus and ovaries–and (this is so cool) showed me that there was an egg sac in my left ovary ready to explode. Yeah, you moms have your babies in the womb pics, but do you have a nearly exploding ovary in your files?
I even got to keep the pictures, which I won’t post here on some very sage advice. But, you know, if anyone’s interested. . . .
So everything is fine and in working order, should it be called upon, but as usual, it was an experience. And on the bright side, I really liked the doctor at the hospital even though he was a man. Ladies, I know you hear me on this one.
Now, back to the hospital pics. The reason I thought to take the first one was because of what had been going on in Italian news at the time–Hygiene Scandal Hits Italy’s Biggest Hospital. Perhaps some thought I was joking when I said there was paint peeling off the walls when I got my health card?
Joking aside, this is serious stuff.
Some Italian hospitals, often in the south, have deplorable conditions–and we’re not just talking about paint. Many places aren’t stocked with certain medications because it’s too expensive. Seriously.
From what I’ve read on a certain Expats site, this includes epidurals for pregnant women, which apparently you must reserve in advance, but then may not even receive if someone more worthy (?) comes along. There are also an extraordinary number of C-sections performed in the south, and many are apparently unnecessary but are done in the doctors’ pockets best interests.
Then there are the types of hygiene problems discussed in the above article–dirty floors, problems with waste disposal, little to no protocol for cleaning used instruments. It’s scary stuff folks, and it’s exactly why the public health care system needs more funding and why that funding needs to end up in the right places, or alternatively, simply not in the wrong ones.
Italian citizens already subsidize the care through their tax euro, paying some of the highest taxes in Europe. Unfortunately, the health care system doesn’t reflect this. Aren’t we in an industrialized, 1st world (kinda) nation here? Shouldn’t our health care correspond?
There’s no reason that socialized health care can’t work, but in Italy, there’s a lot of work yet to be done. I know it’s already been addressed in the Italian media, but fellow expats, does our particular interest group need to call Striscia on this one too?
Let’s talk.
sunday scribblings: chronicles

We’ll get there eventually, but let’s link arms and walk together for a moment.
When I first saw that “chronicles” was the prompt of Sunday Scribblings this week, I wondered what in the heck I’d write about.
I first thought of The Chronicle, a large part of my daily life many moons ago during college. I never worked on the paper, although looking back, I wish I would have, so I could’ve written about that internal struggle–not having the confidence to pursue writing earlier. Eh. Another time.
Then I thought fictionally, and imagined a middle-aged woman cleaning out her deceased father’s apartment with whom she never had a close relationship–figuring out what to keep so as to chronicle his life for the next generation when she, in fact, had no idea what kind of life he had. But then I realized that I scribbled about death last week, and also wrote about my deceased grandmother a few days ago, and well, I’m just about deathed out.
So then this morning I went up to the piazza for my morning cappuccino and was greeted with this scene:
And I thought about writing of this woman chronicling her life through the items she makes. In years past, it was very common here for a young signorina to make all of her own linens for her house, embroidering and whatnot. I imagine that as time goes on, many women crafted more things with their hands–scarves, blankets, linens for children–that if taken together would chronicle a given woman’s life. But this would end up being about death too, wouldn’t it? So let’s call these my photos for “chronicles.”
So I’m thinking there are just so many different ways to chronicle a life, which led me to this:
I’ve always loved writing. Yes, composing, but I’m talking about the physical act of putting ink to paper and forming letters, then words. I used to play with my handwriting all the time, often copying the style of a favorite teacher, making the M in my signature all different ways. One of my favorite M’s was stolen from a framed picture in my room that had my name written in cursive and proclaimed what little girls are made of.
I used to love writing so much that one day when I found my mom’s handwritten notes from nurses’ training, I decided to write them over. I was probably about 10 years old, so of course I had no idea what anything meant, but that didn’t matter. I loved writing, and so I got my looseleaf and favorite pens and went to work.
I remember struggling to read my mom’s handwriting, an odd mix of cursive and printing–so not allowed in a structured 10-year-old’s mind. “What’s this Mom?” must’ve driven her crazy. I don’t know how many pages I ended up copying (I’m guessing not many because I bore quickly), but I do remember imagining myself in a big room, surrounded by other people my age, furiously scribbling as a talking head in the front used a lot of words with many syllables.
Yeah, I was a geek, so I actually fantasized about being in school, but more than that, I see now that I was channeling a part of my mom’s life that I’d never be able to experience. I was able to sit there with her, writing words I wouldn’t understand for another 10 years. All because she didn’t chuck her notes.
Fast forward many years, and you know what? I, too, still have all my notes from college and law school. And perhaps I flatter myself to think that someday, someone might be so inclined to recopy them just to feel closer to me, but for what it’s worth, they’re there. I went three-hole punch happy and man, what a chronicle of that stage in my life I’ve made.
I have journals, letters, and scrapbooks from those years as well, but the academic experience was undeniably a big part of my development too. Who knows what was occupying my thoughts as I learned about evolution, the development of the prison system, Tennyson, Whitman, Yeats? Granted it was most likely Cute English Boy, but I could’ve had an interesting thought here and there. Maybe.
Someday, if I’m so inclined, I can find out. And so can future generations, if I manage to keep track of everything. And as an added bonus, we can even trace the development of my handwriting, which if you’re curious, has ended up looking a lot like my mom’s weird mix of cursive and printing.
I still do that M from the picture though.
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[tags]sunday scribblings, chronicles, handwriting, old notes[/tags]
fancying up the donkey
In response to yesterday’s post, one of my favorite bloggers, The Other Girl, has gone on the record as wanting donkey (or small goat as the case may be) rings on her dream home.
Now TOG (we’re t h i s c l o s e , so I can call her that) is a girl with some major coglioni, but I realize that some of you out there just may be too shy to admit your desire for The Rings–this post is for all of you as well.
Below you will find the proper installation of said gadgets lest you be the laughing stock of your neighborhood because of some half-assed hook ups.
Context people. You know what I mean.
See them there on either side of the door? These people thought ahead and smartly planned for more than one donkey; you’d be well-advised to do the same as I think you’ll find that one ass is hardly ever enough.
Plus I hear that symmetry is in this year.
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[tags]donkeys, donkey rings[/tags]
village games
I moved here three and a half years ago, but I still haven’t discovered even half of the gorgeous, unique, and interesting nooks and crannies of the village.
How can I be so sure?
Well, every time I find something simply amazing, P nods politely and tells me exactly where it is I’m talking about.
He rather enjoys bragging about how well he knows his medieval village. And know it he does–understandable as he has lived here all of his 28 years. Plus he’s a guy, so you know that most of those years were spent exploring the most obscure and likely dangerous spots.
So I’m taking him to task, calling his bluff, and pulling out every other cliché in the book (hah!) as we institute a little game I like to call “Dove cazzo è?” The clean version would be “Where the heck is it?” and it works like this:
(1) I roam the village taking random shots of things.
(2) He has to tell me where I’ve found them–all of them.
(3) Loser cooks dinner and cleans up afterwards.
Here are this round’s pictures:
This is not one of the famed door knockers as you might think. It’s actually a fancy place to hook up your donkey outside the house. This was the easiest of the photos, as it’s not too far from P’s house.
But then I turned up the heat:
A random orange in a random tree. Somewhere. Right? How could one pinpoint it?
Close-up of a door. In a tiny alley. A good distance from where we live.
So? How’d we do?
Tonight I’m making that artichoke dish from last week’s What’s Cooking Wednesday if anyone would like to join us. I’ll even let you dry the dishes. (But not put away the silverware.)
And then we’ll go out and find much more challenging pictures.
Just wanted to give him a false sense of security for the first go-around.
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[tags] calabria, donkey rings, oranges, life in calabria, wooden doors, wood[/tags]




















